For Suzuki LC 1500 Intrude

By "Moccasin" Mike

Seems like somebody forgot their thinking cap when they let all the electrical goodies fire up before the engine does (or maybe they just want to sell more batteries). Suzy's seem to be a bit finicky with regard to the amount of available juice to fire off a cold engine. Couple that with the fact that batteries are at less than optimum output when they are cold, and you got the potential for a non-ride event.

Not to brag on the brains of a competitor, but Kawasaki Vulcan does not let its lights come on until after the starter button is released. Now on a scale for things that make sense, I'd rank that one right at the top, alongside the Valkarie's brake reservoir windows facing the rider!! big winter project for 2000 was to incorporate a pull type brake light switch and relay(s) into the kickstand mount which would control the lights, so that when the stand is down, no juice will go to the headlight.


JC Whitney Relay Switch Pt# 14JE9433Y ($5.95) (get two if you want to cut the tail & running lights)
Dennis Kirk Part no. 21-0119 Universal Brake Light Switch $5.99.
(or Chrome Specialties Brake Light Switch, part no. 37054 available from your local Harley shop.)
Corrugated flexible electrical tubing (from AutoZone) $2.95
Bullet electrical connectors (from AutoZone) $1.79
Primary wire (already had that)

Total investment: Approximately $30.00 ($10 of which was shipping costs)
Estimated return on investment: We won't even go there ;-)


The Black and Green wires are the "Working" wires to the relay. Load the green one and ground the black one (or vice versa) and the relay will click into action. The Red, Yellow and White wires coming from the relay are the "Duty" wires.

The Red wire is the primary load wire. It should be wired hot.
The White wire goes hot when the relay is grounded (circuit is closed).
The Yellow wire goes hot when the relay is not grounded (open circuit).
Remove the Yellow wire from the relay plug, you won't be needing it.


Inside the headlight housing, you will see two loop wires on the connector that comes down from the right handlebar control. These two loops are the lifelines to the headlight, and the tail/running lights, and this is the magic spot for the relay(s). (Using the kickstand switch as a relay ground, you can control two relays with the one switch, and cut the tail/running lights as well as the headlight)

At the headlight/handlebar junction plug, cut the Orange w/Red loop wire that connects the Orange to the Yellow/White wire.

Connect the Orange side of the wire (the hot side) to the Green and the Red wires that go into the relay switch.
Connect the White wire from the relay to the Yellow/White side of the loop wire (the cold side).
Run the Black wire (inside the corrugated conduit) from the relay down the frame and under the engine case on the left side, and run it all the way back to the driveshaft.

If you wish to cut the tail/marker/speedo lights and horn as well, wire a second relay into the remaining loop on the plug in the same manner. However, you will not need to run the black wire to the Kickstand, you can just splice it into the one from the other relay.


Click the image for larger format


Click for larger format

The relay that I used came with its own connector and pigtail wires, therefore the colors of those wires were described on this page and depicted in the diagram above. If you purchase a relay with no wiring attached, you may use any color wiring you wish as substitutes for what I have shown.

To find the hot and cold sides of the loop wire, look at the backside of the connector for the solid orange, and the yellow and white stripped wires. The orange is hot with the ignition, so the half of the loop directly on the other side of the connector is your hot half.


The pull switch will be mounted to the inboard topside of the heavy steel plate that supports the left driver footboard and gearshift lever. Then it will be connected to the kickstand by using a small nickel plated chain (hardware store item). This chain will be used instead of the usual spring wire, due to the length of travel of the kickstand. This will allow you to set the switch in the "on" position with the kickstand up, then the chain simply sags down when the stand is down, allowing the switch to close.

The pull switch will be mounted to the plate via an offset corner bracket. (See mounted switch photo.) You can simply drill a 1/4" hole through the plate and bolt the bracket down. Connect one switch wire to the Black wire from the relay switch(es), and connect the other one to a short section of wire, and ground it somewhere nearby.


Drill a small hole into the solid part of the kickstand just down from where it becomes a "U" (This can be done without removing the kickstand). Secure the chain to the kickstand by threading a cotter pin onto a link in the chain, then through the hole you just drilled. (Be sure to locate the hole and the cotter pin so that it doesn't interfere with the operation of the stand). Check to make sure that the chain does not pull the plunger out to it's limit when the stand is up, then snip off any excess chain. NOTE* The chain can also be attached via a small cable tie if you prefer not to drill into your stand.

Now, when the stand is down the circuit to the relay is ungrounded, and the headlight/tail/running lights will remain off. Lift the stand and on come the lights!!

Switch Off

Switch On

Relays are hidden in the headlight housing. Switch mechanism is neatly tucked under the floorboard, and everything works automatically. Now the battery can concentrate on the important stuff, like cranking a cold engine, and recuperating during warm-up!!


A piece of heavy copper wire, or gem clip can be bent to hold a loop in the chain, should you have a need to park the bike with the lights on (Emergency or roadside assistance, etc.)

In the event of any electrical component failure, all connections were made with opposing bullet connectors, which will allow instant "bypassing" of any component used in this setup.

Optional Setups for those less technically motivated

Although I prefer the more controllable configuration above, many people do not feel that they need this much control, or want to get this complex.

As a less expensive, less technical, and certainly less effective alternative, a single relay can be wired from the Yellow/Green Starter button wire to kill the light just when the starter is engaged. Wire the relay to be "Normally On", then use the starter tap wire to cut the relay Off while the starter is engaged. While this does nothing to reduce the ignition switch draw down, nor does it aid in after-start recovery, it is easier to install, and with virtually no concerns over component failure.

Mocc's Place