If you like the feel of your current handlebars, but just need them in a different position, consider the addition of a quality set of straight or pullback risers to lift and/or move them back a few inches. This can make all the difference in the world on back and shoulder comfort without the endless task of trying out forty bazillion different styles of handlebars, and eliminating the tedious work of changing all the controls, wiring and grips over to the new bars.

Risers are generally a more expensive alternative to new bars, but the cost is offset by the advantages of not having to do a complete swap, and retaining the original "feel" of the bars.

Usually priced between $50.00 and $150.00, risers are an easy installation, and usually can be utilized with no additional cable or hose lengths, although some may require a slight re-routing of the throttle cables.

They come in a variety of styles and heights, both straight and with a slight rearward bend. The easiest way to get a good idea of what you need is to find a safe place to ride on some straight road, and move your hand position around to get a "feel" for where you want your hands to be (cruise control helps a lot here). For me, grasping the mirrors put me pretty much where I wanted to be, so I knew I need approx 2" more height, and a little pull back would give me a more upright posture for long ride comfort.

Basic 4.5" pullback risers are available from most any Harley Davidson shop at a modest cost of around $30.00, but this is for the uprights only with no caps or hardware. You will need to also purchase a Harley style riser cap, cap bolts, and 3" to 3.5" x 1/2" hex bolts to mount the risers to your LC triple tree. (3.5" bolts may bottom out on you, and require the use of a couple of washers for spacers, but will give more thread bite for strength)

Be aware that the bolt spacing of the LC triple tree is slightly wider than the bolt spacing on one-piece Harley riser caps. Some people have cut the HD riser caps and wrapped the caps in leather to hide the cut, Click here to see a cut riser cap setup. but HD now offers a set of "Split Caps" that do not need any cutting or covering. Others have simply installed all parts loosely, to get the bolts in place, then tightened everything down. While leaning in the risers will work, it is not recommended. The contact surface of the clamps is reduced due to the lean, and there is a larger danger of too much pinch torque in too small of an area on the bars. In other words, you run a higher risk of bending or breaking your bars at the outer end of the riser, should you ever need to tie the bike into a trailer.

Here's a shopping list for the Drag Specialties, including split caps:

Drag Specialties 4.5" Pullback Risers $ 25.90
Harley Billet Split Riser Caps (Harley Part #56057-00) $ 59.95 (Alternative source at J&P Cycles for $26.95 Item number 5000874)
Chromed Riser Clamp Screw Set $ 4.95
Chrome Screw Cap Set $ 2.37 (buttons to cover the screw tops)
3.1/2 x 1/2 Hex Bolts (2) $ 1.30 (any good hardware store)
7/16 Flat Washers (4) $ 0.40 (I needed to use these as spacers under the hex bolts)
TOTAL COST - $94.90

If your risers lift your bars more than three inches, there is a good chance that you will need to re-route your throttle cables to a new position BEHIND the upper tripletree plate to allow full turns both ways with no tension on the cables. Be aware that ANY tension on the throttle cables can pull your carbs right out of the intake manifold!! This is not a kewl situation to be in!

The easiest way to re-route throttle cables is to simply remove them from the throttle control at the grip, by removing the retaining plate to the cables from beneath the control unit, then opening the handlebar control unit and slipping the cable ends off the throttle and out the control. Next, pull both cables from the left side of the frame neck to bring them out from the bulkhead piece, and push them right around the frame neck, and up behind the upper triple tree plate, then re-install them. This method does not require any adjustments to the cables afterward.

Here's a photo of what they should look like when finished: Cables (larger view of Drag Specialties above)
My cables get very slightly squeezed between the triple tree and the speedometer console on a full right turn, but not enough to cause any problems whatsoever.

A helper is invaluable for preserving the integrity of your paint job!! (ask me how hard it is to find this out!) Have your helper maintain a good grip on your bars while seated on the drivers seat, while you do all the work. Also, it's a highly recommended tip for you to place a blanket or towel over the gas tank or air box (on the LC), just in case your helper is daydreaming!

First, break the torque on the large riser mounting bolts under the top triple tree by turning the handlebars all the way until they lock and unscrewing the bolts a little bit. Then do the same with the riser cap bolts.

After all bolts are loosened slightly, remove the OEM riser caps and have your assistant hold the bars while you remove the risers. (Your assistant can rest the bars on the tank if you trust him/her not to dose off!)

Now, just loosely install the new risers and caps until everything is in place and fairly snug. Then torque down the large mounting bolts, and adjust the bars to your liking, then tighten the cap bolts.

Check that there is no binding or pulling on the cables or hoses when the front end is moved to its maximum limits, and do any re-routing that may be necessary to finish the job.

Have fun and treat yourself to some quality, laid back "cruise" time!

SNAKE MAIL